A Classic Portrait Lighting Setup Every Photographer Should Know

A Classic Portrait Lighting Setup Every Photographer Should Know

These days, there’s an abundance of high-tech lighting gadgets, AI editing tools, and one-click presets and filters.

I think it’s now become so commonplace to use such tools that people sometimes forget there’s another way:

You can also achieve beautiful portraits by using a classic portrait lighting setup.

In this post, I will show you exactly how to do that using a traditional studio lighting technique. 

It’s actually one of the simplest and most flattering lighting setups (using just a softbox and a reflector/DIY fill board).

This lighting setup is very beginner-friendly, works in any space, and will give you ultra-professional results.

Let’s get into it!

(By the way, this post is part of an ongoing series exploring different portrait lighting setups; check out the first post dedicated to Rembrandt lighting here.)

1. What Is a Classic Portrait Lighting Setup?

First of all, let me explain what I mean by a classic portrait lighting setup:

In simple terms, this refers to a lighting setup that uses soft, directional light from a primary (or “key”) source, combined with a tool like a reflector to fill in shadows. 

The result is clean, flattering, and very natural-looking light that mimics the quality of window light.

As an example, have a look at this image (one of my self portraits):

You can see that a softbox was used because there are small white catchlights in the iris/pupil.

You can also see that the shadows on the right side of the face and neck are very soft because they were brightened up with a reflector.

This sort of lighting flatters most subjects and is suitable for a wide range of portrait styles, such as headshots, beauty portraits, or editorial images.

It’s also very easy to set up: 

Once you understand the basic positioning of light and reflector/fill, you can recreate it in almost any space with minimal gear.

Before I get to the next section…did you know you can download my free portrait photography ebook? More info below:

…but now, back to the blog post!

2. The Basic Portrait Lighting Setup Explained

The classic portrait lighting setup basically consists of two elements:

• a key (main) light
•  a reflector or fill source.

Together, they create a flattering, diffused light with soft shadows.

Key Light

The main light in this setup is typically a softbox placed at a 45-degree angle to your subject, and slightly above eye level. 

As mentioned, the softbox mimics natural window light; it reduces sharp edges and creates natural-looking catchlights in the subject’s eyes.

Here’s another example:

Portrait of a girl shot using a classic lighting setup. Image Credit: Bess Hamiti.

Fill Light (Reflector)

To reduce contrast and lift the shadows on the opposite side of the face, place a reflector or white fill board opposite the key light. 

This can be a professional 5-in-1 reflector, a piece of white foam board, or even a DIY solution like poster board or white cardboard. 

You’ll want to position it slightly below face level, angled to bounce light back onto the shadowed side of the face. 

You can move it closer or further to control how much fill you want.

By the way: I’ve written an in-depth post about setting up a home studio with recommendations for reflectors and other gear; you can check it out here.

3. Light Source Options

Next, let’s talk about choosing the right light source for your portrait shoot.

When speaking to fellow photographers, lighting is often the topic that gives everyone the biggest headache, but it’s actually much more straightforward than it seems.

Read on to discover three common types of lighting you can use for your classic portrait lighting setup.

Continuous Lights

Continuous lighting refers to a light that stays on after it is turned on.

It’s very beginner-friendly because what you see through the viewfinder or on-screen is exactly what you’ll get in the final image.

Advantages:

• You get an exact lighting preview of shadows and highlights, meaning you don’t need to do a test shot.
• It’s beginner-friendly, easy to understand and intuitive to use.
• It’s cheaper: You can get budget LED panels or daylight-balanced bulbs at a low cost.

Disadvantages:

• The light output is lower; you may need to shoot at higher ISOs or slower shutter speeds to compensate.
• Older continuous lights (like tungsten) can get hot, though modern LEDs have mostly solved this issue.

Photo of a continuous daylight bulb. Image credit: Chan Factory.

Strobe/Flash Lights

Strobes or flashes fire a powerful burst of light when the shutter is triggered.

I love strobes because they give you lots of creative control, and they are often used in professional studios.

Advantages:

• Strobes are very powerful and can easily light your subject even in large or bright spaces.
• Strobes freeze motion, which makes them great for capturing sharp portraits without blur.
• You get studio-quality results and accurate skin tones.

Disadvantages:

• There is a learning curve since you have to understand flash power settings and sync speeds.
• You’ll most likely need extra gear such as triggers, sync cables, or built-in wireless systems to fire the flash.

Reflectors and DIY Fill

A reflector is an easy (and cheap) tool to shape and soften light emanating from a natural window or an artificial source.

You can use a professional reflector or DIY options like white foam board, baking foil, car sunshades, or even an emergency blanket.

Position the reflector or fill in such a way that it bounces light from your main source back onto the subject; it may need a bit of experimenting to find the right angle.

Reflector in a photo studio. Image credit: Skylar Kang.

4. How to Position Your Lights (Step-by-Step)

Setting up classic portrait lighting setup is super easy–simply follow these steps:

Step 1: Position your subject in front of a clean backdrop like a plain wall, seamless paper, or even a fabric curtain. 

(For more on backdrops, check out my previous post here).

Step 2: Position your key light (typically a softbox) at about a 45-degree angle to the subject’s face and slightly above eye level. 

Step 3: Add your reflector on the opposite side of the face, around chest height or slightly higher. Angle it upward to bounce the light back onto the shadowed side of the face, reducing contrast.

Step 4: Take a few test shots and adjust the distance of the reflector. Move it closer for stronger fill or further for more shadow and depth.

Ideally, try to create gentle contrast rather than harsh shadows or completely flat lighting.

Studio Portrait Using a Simple Lighting Setup. Image Credit: Brian Lawson.

5. Final Tips

This lighting setup is pretty straightforward, so you probably won’t run into any major problems.

However, if you’re not quite getting the results you want, check out these final tips:

• Watch for catchlights in the eyes, as they bring your portrait to life. Sometimes you may just need to adjust the softbox height or angle by millimetres.
• Don’t place the reflector too close as this can flatten the subject’s facial features.
• It’s a good idea to test on different skin tones. What works for one subject may need slight changes for another.
• If you want more precision, use a grey card or light meter. However, I actually don’t use those tools but instead fix white balance and exposure in Photoshop.

Once you’ve got the basics down, you can adapt this setup by changing modifiers and angles or adding more lights.

And that’s it for today!

Finally, I would love to know…have you tried this setup?

Then share your results, questions, or feedback in the comments!